It Begins in Wrocław


Dorota Monkiewicz

Wrocław was and surely is “the meeting place.” It was such a place for people that settled here after the war and is such a place for those, who tempted by the city’s aura remain here after graduating college or move here from different regions of Poland and the world.

During the national conceptual symposium in Wrocław in 1970, Zbigniew Gostomski, an artist from Warsaw, presented his project, entitled “It Begins in Wrocław.” His idea was to create an imaginary space of the globe, basen on a system of modular sections, the measuring of which would start off in Wrocław and continue around the world. The phrase “It Begins in Wrocław,” aside of all other notions that the project might carry, sounded like a call to arms, an optimistic reaching out toward all the great things the future might hold.

Es beginnt in Breslau

Almost 40 years later, Gostomski’s project inspired Rafał Jakubowicz, a young artist from Poznań, who mounted a white neon spelling “Es beginnt in Breslau” on the building of the BWA Awangarda gallery in the center of Wrocław. This German version of Gostomski’s phrase was supposed to evoke the context of the artistic event from 1970. It referenced Polish avant-garde art from the period of “realist socialism,” with its milestones – the symposia and open air meetings in Osieki near Koszalin (Köslin), in Elbląg (Elbing), Zielona Góra (Grünberg) and Wrocław. All these events were organized on the so-called Recovered Territories, which are former Reich lands reclaimed by Poland after World War II. The communist authorities allowed these events to take place, because they created a new history for these lands that had none (they were to be wiped clean of any traces of German history).

Grotowski, Has, Różewicz

Wrocław was almost razed to the ground during the siege of Festung Breslau in the spring of 1945 and it has been trying to rebuild itself for decades. Despite its weak economic situation, Wrocław became an important cultural center. The intelligentsia, resettled here from Lviv after World War II, has set the intellectual tone of the entire city. The rebuilt University of Wrocław had a booming Polish studies department. The headquarters of the cultural magazine “Odra” was based here, just like Jerzy Grotowski’s avant-garde “Laboratorium” theater and the local film studio, birthplace of the cult classic “The Saragossa Manuscript”, directed by Wojciech Jerzy Has. The poet and playwright Tadeusz Różewicz also settled in Wrocław. There were numerous avant-garde initiatives in the field of visual arts taking place in Wrocław – from the “Mona Lisa” concept gallery and Jerzy Ludwiński’s Current Art Museum, through the new media exhibitions in the Permafo and Foto-Medium-Art galleries, up to anarchist provocations of the Orange Alternative and the Luxus group in the 1980s.


Jakubowicz’s question about “when” does Wrocław start is a fundamental issue for the local culture and the identity of modern inhabitants of the city. The polls conducted recently in Wrocław by Paweł Kubicki, a sociologist from the Institute of European Studies at the Jagiellonian University, show that when asked about the most important source of self-identification, the people of Wrocław mentioned the common experience of defending the city from flooding in 1997. During one of many debates discussing the same topic, the local intellectuals mentioned other sources as well: the memories of working with then-underground “Solidarność” movement in the 1980s or even the older memories of old post-war institutions transplanted from Lviv to Wrocław. However, the debate was called “Can you invent your own tradition?,” and the title, devised by a local journalist, Łukasz Medeksza, indicates that something we could call “local identity” in relation to being Polish, German or Czech (as Wrocław in its long history was also a part of the Czech state, and towards the end of the communist era, its inhabitants kept up the Solidarity with their southern neighbors) is still in a very nascent, dynamic and uncertain state. After the war, the city was filled with the resettled intellectual elite from Lviv, a few Germans that stayed but also people from the Eastern Borderlands, Varsovians from the ruined capital, people from Greater Poland and all sorts of folks who wanted to find a new life in the Reclaimed Territories.

Wrocław, Breslau, Breclav

Although almost 70 years have passed since the war ended, the phantasmagorical German presence in the city’s architecture and urban plan is confronted every day with the Polish element and is also present in the discourse of local cultural institutions. The national museum has a permanent exhibit of Silesian sculpture (please note the semantics – not German, but Silesian), Polish modern art and a representative collection of pre-war avant-garde art from Lviv (the “Artes” group), while for the Municipal Museum, history of Wrocław shows that it is mostly a German city. Similar proclivities can be seen in the choices made by the Architectural Museum staff, fascinated with unique examples of German modernist architecture in Wrocław (designed by Hans Scharoun, Max Berg and Erich Mendelsohn). The issue of negotiating the past and the present will surely arise with the Museum of Modern Art, currently located – while the building which will house it in the future is constructed – in a German air raid shelter that was a field hospital during the siege of Festung Breslau.

A city under construction

Wrocław was and surely is “the meeting place.” It was such a place for people that settled here after the war and is such a place for those, who tempted by the city’s aura or job offers, remain here after graduating college or move here from different regions of Poland and the world. In this sense, Wrocław will forever be a young and dynamically developing metropolis. The phrase “It Begins in Wrocław” still sounds appropriate, after all, numerous projects are currently under construction, like the Museum of Modern Art, the National Music Forum, a brand new sports stadium, a beltway, new bridges. The goal of these investments is making Wrocław a city with cutting-edge technologies, which isn’t surprising given the fact that the IT departments at the city’s universities are known for fostering creativity and innovation.

Working on modernity

Wrocław is still friendly towards avant-garde art. There is a number of festivals taking place in Wrocław, like the Era New Horizons film festival, the Dialogue theater festival, Wratislavia Cantans music festival, the WRO Biennale. Wrocław also founded the Angelus Silesius Central European Literary Award. I think all these artistic events are best described by message expressed in the Policy Concept of the Wrocław Museum of Modern Art. The message reads: “the Museum’s mission is to work on modernity using a wide range of activities (...). The knowledge obtained through experiencing art, absorbed through participation and the possibility of hearing some commentary on the experienced art is conducive to increasing the audience’s self-knowledge and defining the audience’s self-identity in private and public spaces as well as in a temporal perspective.”

Translated by Jan Szelągiewicz

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